Properly fitted hardwood flooring is an investment that can last a lifetime.  However, wooden flooring is a natural product and needs to be properly installed – so our advice is to have it installed by professionals.

To ensure a lasting, hard wearing enhancement to your living or working environment, your hardwood floor needs to be professionally fitted and the appropriate fixes and finishes used, along with regular maintenance.

• Acclimatisation

Wood is a natural product which is very sensitive to its surroundings, as it will absorb moisture, expand and contract with changes in heat and humidity. It is necessary to acclimatise before fitting at the location where it will be fitted.

The amount of time depends on the environment, season, temperature and humidity. Normally 10-14 days is sufficient.

The product is suitable for underfloor heating, however longer acclimatisation up to 90 days may be required and narrower boards must be used. Since most underfloor systems run around 26-29 celcius solid wood can reduce the amount of heat transferred sor and an engineered wood floor may be more appropriate.

• Preparation

All wet work (plastering, cement work, painting etc) on the site must be finished and completely dry as the wood will absorb the moisture dispersed during the drying out process.

Cement screed floors need to be completely dried out;The formula used is one day per mm for the first 40mm, then two days per mm over. Eg. a 100mm thick screed will require 40 days for the first 40mm thickness, plus 120 days for the next 60mm, Total 160 days drying time. This can be reduced by using additives or specialist screeds which dry faster. There are liquid damp proof membranes and associated products which can also be used. If you fit kiln dried wood to a subfloor containing excess moisture you seal the moisture below, and the wood will then absorb the moisture like a sponge resulting is the wood swellling,warping and lifting. AN RH reading of below 14% is required.

• Fixing

The sub-floor must be even and level.  It is necessary for a solid wood floor to be securely fixed to the sub-floor. It is not recommended to float solid wood. This means fixing directly to concrete/screed with an appropriate flooring adhesive, or nailing directly onto the joists, battens or existing wood floor.

The preferred method is “Secret Nailing” where the board is nailed with a power-nailer at 45 degrees through the tongue. It is also possible to “Face nail” directly through the boards for a more rustic look. An expansion gap is necessary ALL AROUND the edges of the floor. This can be covered with the skirting or a scotia/beading. The size of the gap depends of the size of the floor.

• Finishing

1. Lacquering/ VarnishingThis provides a layer on top of the floor which hardens and protects the wood. Two coats are sufficient for living areas, but more coats may be required depending on the amount of traffic. After the first coat the floor should be lightly hand-sanded wit hvery fine sandpaper then cleaned to remove the “raised grain” you will get after the first application.
2. Hardwax Oiling is a combination of natural oil, and solid waxes which protect the wood by saturating with oil so it cannot absorb spills, and impregnating the surface with wax to protect it. The product normally needs to be buffed into the surface, and all excess wiped away. Two applications are normal. The floor will then require periodic re-oiling with a lighter 'maintenance oil', every 12 months in an living area, or every 6-8 months in hallways and other high traffic areas.